Clos De La Perriere an Exceptional Wine Review
There are lots of vineyards called 'clos de something-or-other' in Burgundy.
(firmenpresse) - The Clos de la Perriere in Fixin, founded by the Cistercians in 1142, is, as the name implies, a walled-in vineyard that the monks way back when knew made an exceptional wine. Inside those walls however, the vineyard is composed of 4 distinct parcels. And while each of these 4 parcels on its own produces an interesting wine, the four together make magic.
That the monks knew this back in the Middle Ages is not, in itself, extraordinary. They had time, and plenty of 'ora et labora'. And as, over time, they came to know where the best vineyards were, they put walls around them.
There are lots of vineyards called 'clos de something-or-other' in Burgundy. The best known of course is the Clos de Vougeot. But where the Clos de la Perriere is different, unique even, is that is has never been divided up. If the idea of putting a wall around a vineyard was to enclose various parcels of land that are component parts of one great wine, then dividing and selling off parcels within the clos can only dim the original vision.
In 1855 Dr. Lavalle classified the Clos de la Perriere as 'tête de cuvée', as he did most of the present-day grand cru vineyards. Two years previous, the Joliet family bought the Clos, and it has been in their family since. 6 generations, with Benigne Joliet at the helm today. Perhaps because the wine at the time was not up to its potential, perhaps simply because it is Fixin, who knows, but when the modern classifications were made, the Clos was relegated to burgundy premier cru.
But Benigne Joliet knows that it is a grand cru. Perhaps the only vineyard of grand cru stature still intact that was laid out by the monks in the Middle Ages. And he is fighting to have it recognized as such, both with the AOC people and in the cellar.
Last week, Charles Curtis MW and I had the pleasure of tasting the 2013 in its component parts, 4 cuvees from the four parcels inside the walls. Benigne Joliet presented it dramatically. Cuvée #4, the oldest vines from the parcel the furthest to the north was alive, like only premier cru red wine from well-tended vines can be alive. Depth and density. Cuvée #2, the youngest vines gives vivacity, a bright acidity over soft tannins. Cuvée #1 from the parcel the furthest south, and hence the earliest harvested, gives you the fruit, a big burst of fruit. And Cuvée #3, from the edge of the wall near the forest at the top of the vineyard gives the bottom, the edge, the tannin.
But like four notes in a chord, when Benigne blended together the approximate assemblage that will be 2013 Clos de la Perriere, the wine sang. Bright, peppery, alive, with big yet subtle fruit and a long, long finish.
Fixin 1er Cru 'Clos de la Perriere' from Domain Joliet. Relatively unknown. Look for it.
Elden Selections specialize in small-production estate-bottled burgundy wine online, many that are not otherwise available in the US. We live in Burgundy. Have done for 30 years. We know these winemakers and their families. First and foremost they are farmers, and they know that there is no good wine without good grapes.
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Ellen and Dennis (Get it? El-Den) make Burgundy accessible by unlocking the most complex wine region in the world. Elden Selections brings delicious wines from the Burgundy region of France to wine aficionados in the USA. These exquisite wines are from small producers and family owned wineries that are otherwise difficult to find and complex to understand. Elden Selections makes it easy and affordable.
Datum: 29.03.2015 - 05:42 Uhr
Sprache: Deutsch
News-ID 381834
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Contact person: JoAnn Chew
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Typ of Press Release: bitte
type of sending: Veröffentlichung
Date of sending: 03/29/2015
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